LIFESTYLE

Hey foodies, have you tried Manichettan’s kappa-kanji?

Modern restaurants are opening up all across Kochi on a daily basis. However, a few charming, historic establishments still manage to attract their own following. Among them is “Chettiyar kada,” also known as “Manichettante kada” in Tripunithura.

 

This little shanty, which opened in 1985, is next to the well-known Hill Palace. The store is well-liked by the people of Tripunithura and is known for its cozy tapioca porridge, or “kappa-kanji,” which is its main dish.

Owner and head chef Kottakkaparambil P V Mani, 80, has owned the establishment for a long time and has lived in Tripunithura. In the early 1980s, this area didn’t have a lot of stores or restaurants. I made the decision to open one, and at the time, it was kind of an experience. But even now, I am glad I made that choice,” he says with a grin.

Every weekday, the store opens at 5:30 p.m. and closes at 8:30 p.m. Mani still exudes the same young enthusiasm as it nears its 40th anniversary. He manages the store by himself, keeping the flavors that have drawn clients in for forty years.

A mixture of curry leaves, green chilies, ginger, garlic, pepper, and coriander leaves are cooked with tapioca to create the characteristic meal, kappa-kanji. As he stirs the meal, Manichettan says, “The magic ingredient is the coconut oil.”

This filling porridge costs Rs 45 and comes with fresh scrambled eggs. This recipe is flavorful and nostalgic because to the careful ingredient balancing. It’s heavenly to have a hot serving when it’s pouring outside. The emotion justifies the journey to Tirpunithura.

The 40-rupee bull’s eye quail egg is another well-liked item here. Remarkably, the accompanying water also has a distinct Manichettan touch—it’s flavored with herbs, like ginger one day and country borage the next.

Even with its simple layout, “Manichettante kada” has a devoted fan base. There are a few plastic chairs and an improvised kitchen in the shanty. Six people could hardly squeeze inside of it. Nevertheless, a long line forms to enjoy a dish of kappa-kanji.

Manichettan reports that customers include techies from InfoPark as well as drivers of local autorickshaws. Curious social media foodies have also been frequenting the store recently.

Even before I open the business, people are waiting in line outside. There are around 100 servings distributed each day. I’m not eager to raise the amount even in spite of demand. The standard has been two large containers of porridge every day from the outset. Manichettan beams, “I am delighted that people like the quality; that’s enough for me.

“I like to handle things alone. When I need help, my son Retheesh and wife Sarada help me.

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