The Kaapi Kadhai

The fascinating story of how coffee, a simple bean, originated in India includes imperial expansion, a bold robbery, historical source exchanges, and the emergence of several internet platforms.

The beginnings

Despite having historical origins in Africa, Yemen in West Asia became the global leader in coffee farming, exporting the bean to every country in the known globe at the time. Roasted coffee was brought to the subcontinent by Arab traders who were trading with India, the center of the spice trade. The aristocracy there were enthralled with the coffee and demand skyrocketed.

It was evident that the bean needed to be cultivated locally since demand for it soon surpassed supply. But this was impeded by other causes. Yemeni growers and producers permitted only roasted coffee beans to be sold in order to maintain their monopoly over coffee farming. Death was the punishment for selling green coffee beans.

While on his way back from a trip to Mecca in 1670, the Indian Sufi mystic Baba Budan happened to come into contact with coffee in Yemen. He came up with strategies to transport the seeds back home after studying as much as he could about the bean. He returned to India after concealing seven beans in his beard and walking stick.

After returning home, he planted the beans at Chikmagalur, Karnataka, in the Chandragiri Hills. This not only signaled the beginning of coffee growing in this region, but it also planted the seeds for a flourishing coffee culture that would eventually expand across the nation. A temple is erected in his honor, and the hills are today known as the Baba Budangiri Hills.

The growth

If this was the beginning of India’s coffee growing industry, then colonial expansion was the game-changer. Realizing that the Indian climate offered great potential for coffee growing, the British started large-scale plantations in the southern states in the eighteenth century. Currently, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Kerala comprise the majority of the country’s coffee production—92 percent—forming the heart of the historic coffee-growing area.

The Nilgirs in Tamil Nadu proved to be an ideal location for growing coffee because of their climate and soil. The crop prospered throughout time, turning the area into a hub for coffee production. It is impossible to ignore the French impact on Indian coffee. The addition of chicory, a roasted root vegetable that gives the coffee a distinct earthy bitterness, is indicative of this. In fact, this historical period saw the development of many procedures and methodical farming techniques. The creation of Monsoon Malabar coffee is noteworthy since it included a novel procedure to adjust to the difficulties of maritime transportation.

The sector

Following independence The creation of the Indian Coffee Board and the passing of the Coffee Act of 1942 brought about a dramatic change in the coffee business in India. Smallholder production now predominates because of these advances, which made the environment for coffee producers more organized and encouraging. These days, small farmers make up a significant portion of India’s coffee producers.

During these years, coffee was also grown outside of the conventional belt, in the northeastern states as well as along the eastern shores of Andhra Pradesh and Odisha. A range of microclimates and terroirs were brought about by this diversification, which helped to create the peculiar characteristics of Indian coffee, such as the famous Indian-monsooned coffee.

The customs

In India, coffee has become more than just a crop. It has been ingrained in the fabric of culture, particularly in the South where drinking traditional filter coffee every day is highly valued. The well-known culinary and travel reference website TasteAtlas just unveiled a new ranking list of the “Top 38 Coffees In The World,” with our favorite filter coffee coming in at number two. This creamy drink, served in a tumbler with a davara, originated in Tamil Nadu and was popularized there in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Kumbakonam is the birthplace of Tamil Nadu’s filter coffee. This kind, which goes by the term “degree kaapi” (which describes the thickness of the coffee), is well-known for its powerful and rich flavor.

The proliferation of online businesses has democratized access to premium coffee, enabling customers to enjoy consistently high-quality drinks at the touch of a button.

The story of Indian coffee’s history is as fascinating as the beverage itself, spanning from the audacious robbery of Baba Budan to the internet marketplace.

The brewing team

All of the issues and tension that life presents can be resolved with a steaming cup of coffee. Chennaiites reminisce about their first taste of filter coffee and identify some of their favorite places to get it—places that everyone should definitely put on their must-visit list.

The product owner, Jaysharan

My first taste of Kaylir Canteen’s filter coffee, which I was introduced to by a close friend, was unforgettable. My taste buds were stimulated by the strong flavor of freshly ground beans, which restored my passion for coffee. I treasure this recollection, particularly in light of my recent change in preferences that caused me to give up coffee. However, Kaylir’s creation inspired a fresh appreciation for a well-brewed filter coffee. It serves as a reminder that the most basic pleasures have the power to evoke priceless memories.

Data and AI engineer Hemapriya

For us South Indians, myself included, filter coffee is more than simply another beverage. Deep ties exist between it and the cultures of the southern states. I associate having a glass of filter coffee with my early years. It was, and still is, more of a comfort beverage that denotes family time spent together and sparks talks. I always think of my mom and my cup of filter coffee when I get a headache. It is true that getting a caffeine boost helps you get through multitasking. Made by my mother, my favorite place to get filter coffee is at home. However, I really like the freshly made filter coffee at Saravana Bhavan; the atmosphere and scent make it well worth the price.

Workhall Intern Shruti Shankar

I think I had filter coffee for the first time when I was about three years old. Coffee was a passion for my paternal grandpa, who drank four to six tumblers a day. He made sure my grandma always brought a little tumbler with her whenever we visited, just so he could share some of his coffee with me. Even now, I would always choose a hot cup of filter coffee over espressos and americanos, thus my affection for the beverage has remained constant throughout the years. Without a doubt, the greatest filter coffee can be found at Vishranthi in Besant Nagar. You would want to go back for another round right away since the balance between the chicory and coffee versus their sugar ratio is simply so wonderful!

Aditya Kamakshinadha is a multi-percussionist and music therapist.

There’s nothing like a tumbler of suda suda filter coffee to get your day started. This beverage is created from ground, roasted plant seeds by percolation, infusion, or decoction to offer you the quick energy boost your body needs. Nestled within Mylapore’s winding lanes lies Rayar Mess, one of my favorite spots. Following a rich tiffin, you may choose between the stronger black coffee and the milder milk variant. We all want the real thing, and this coffee delivers it in spades—fresh and steaming hot exactly like at home. You should also check out Nungambakkam’s Coffee Spot. This establishment fills you up with mouthwatering chaats and the greatest bun-butter-jams. For those who are feeling peckish in the evening, the sundals and samosas make a perfect snack, and the coffee here serves as a fitting finale.

Senior System Associate Sharon Maria

My earliest fond memory of filter coffee dates back to a visit to this shop many years ago. I was tempted to taste their renowned filter coffee by the scent. The moment I took my first taste was enlightening. Long after the cup was emptied, I could still taste the exquisite balance of flavors generated by the milk’s smoothness and the rich, robust flavor. After then, filter coffee evolved from being a simple beverage to a ritual that provided solace during intimate and contemplative times. It represents tradition, artistry, and a feeling of community to me. It serves as a gentle reminder to take it easy and appreciate the little things in life, whether they are done alone or with those you care about. I advise going to Saravana Bhavan.

Siddharth, an analyst of football

Coffee Shastra is my favorite location for filter coffee. I always find it funny when a contemporary ambiance is combined with a neighborhood filter coffee shop. They provide excellent coffee. My favorite coffee, however, is hazelnut. Despite my love for Americanos (black coffee without sugar), I usually enjoy my coffee bitter, and this blend retains that bitter flavor with a hint of sweetness from the hazelnut mix. It provides me with mental clarity and a healthy break that energizes me for the day, especially when I enjoy it with some banana cake and conversation with my loved ones. That’s the effect caffeine has on us.

Ambarish Raghavendar is the founder of the digital marketing agency VidWants.

It was the middle of the 2000s, and I was taking a summer vacation to visit my hometown. During those years, I had been consuming coffee, but mostly at home. The coffee on the morning train I was riding on was awful; it was very thin and pre-mixed with too much sugar. I was not in the mood for it. I got a taste of filter coffee at an outside hotel just after getting down at my home station. I started to like filter coffee over other hot drinks at that point. To me, filter coffee represents “home.” After a long day, I feel warm and content after taking a drink with a little strong decoction and sugar sprinkled on top. The scent also helps to soothe the body and mind. My personal favorites for filter coffee are Rayar’s Mess and Mami Tiffen Stall in Mylapore.