Absolutely delicious

Slightly more than a teaspoon of the extremely scented, caramel-colored fat is sometimes splattered over the gently basting filet of pomfret by chef Sarah Todd. As the chef de partie and brand representative of The Sanctuary Bar & Kitchen in Anjuna, Goa, she uses her new favorite fat, ghee, to prepare her favorite fish dish. It melds well with the brightness of the citrus and parsley sauce and the bite of her caper salsa.

All around the nation, chefs appear to agree that switching from butter to ghee is the wisest choice. It makes sense that the latest iteration of the esteemed Godrej Food Trends Report 2024 has projected that this year, ghee’s revived popularity as a healthy kitchen staple would be attributed to its inherent healthiness and its historical association with Ayurveda. And there are several examples of the resurgence in dishes as varied as sweets prepared in the West and even drinks.

The Healthy Fat

“Ghee’s nutty, caramel-like flavor profile adds an extra layer of complexity, and it can withstand higher cooking temperatures without burning, which makes it perfect for achieving that delicate balance of searing and simmering,” says Todd.

However, ghee, also known as clarified butter in French, has always been a bit of a culinary chameleon. Ghee’s transformation from a commonplace item in Indian homes to a prized component in upscale dining establishments is evidence of its adaptability and the respect that the world’s chefs have for its intense flavor and elevated smoke point.

It may not be a one-stop shop for fat in all Western-style meals, however. Executive chef Matteo Fracalossi of the Andaz Delhi makes a fresh herb risotto with ghee-poached Japanese scallop, prosecco froth, and lemon zest on top. Ghee can’t be used in lieu of butter in every recipe, but if the proper proportions are found, the flavor will be noticeably different, according to Fracalossi.

In the holy city of Rishikesh, there’s a genuinely unusual concept restaurant called VARR Temple Food of India by Hotel Ganga Kinare that offers us a fine dining desi take on ghee. Here, only pure ghee is used to prepare the whole meal. Corporate chef Deepak Bhatt states, “We even use it in our drinks such as panchamrit (cow milk, ghee, honey, Ganga jal, and tulsi) and dhuaan chaas—a buttermilk drink smoked with ghee and sizzling coal.” Ghee is a premium ingredient in both traditional and fusion cuisines, adding richness and depth to a wide array of dishes, from savoury to sweet.

Paneer chilgoza kofta; Nut chocolate butter
Paneer chilgoza kofta; Nut chocolate butter
Strange Suspects

Speaking of beverages, the intriguing Cha cocktail, which is served at House of Nomad at the Taj Holiday Village Resort & Spa in Sinquerim, North Goa, is one that is riding the entire “fat-washed” cocktail trend. “It pays homage to India’s rich flavors with a blend of palm jaggery, homemade Nagpur orange bitters, Darjeeling tea, and dark rum washed in ghee and infused with cinnamon.” According to Archita Gupta, the resort’s former assistant director of food and beverage, “this exquisite cocktail captures the essence of India’s diverse culinary heritage.”

Not one, but two delicious treats that showcase the mastery of desi fat will bring the “ghee renaissance 2.0” to a delightful close. Chef Tushar Malkani of The Yellow House, Anjuna IHCL SeleQtions, Goa, speaks about his ghee chocolate truffles, which he twists by adding shredded coconut to it to improve the flavor and power of ghee. The chef is on one hand. On the other hand, ghee is used by Chef Niriksha Reddy, sous chef at the ITC Grand Central in Mumbai, to produce nut chocolate butter. “Chefs can combine Western influences with traditional Indian flavors by blending ghee into drinks and desserts.” May the ghee’s unceasing flow keep soaking us all in its sweetness.