Snacks at the bar: Recalling those priceless “Touchings”
The sensual phrase “touchings” is used by the Malayalis to describe it. Far more advanced than the “Chakna” of northern India. However, bar snacks alone may constitute a unique culinary genre. Indian “munchies” are in a whole other category within that. I think there’s a rationale behind it.
Although fans of Cashew Feni may argue otherwise, liquor was seldom appreciated in India for its flavor or scent. With a few exceptions, such as Asha distilled by the Rajasthan Royals, the majority of traditional Indian spirits really tasted rather bad. Even the so-called Indian prepared Foreign Liquor (IMFL), which was often prepared from distilled molasses, fell under this category. Sugarcane ethanol’s fundamental qualities could not be concealed by artificial flavonoids. In addition, the ideas of aging and cure were nonexistent. Because of this, those who drank alcohol believed that they needed to have something fatty—fried or otherwise oily—to counteract the alcohol’s harsh taste.
I believe there were more hypotheses in operation. The “empty stomach” concept is the first. That has some value, to be sure. Drinking after a prolonged period of fasting causes the body to absorb alcohol more quickly due to sugar starvation, which may result in early intoxication. On the other hand, there is no truth to the assumptions that it damages the liver or produces acidity. In addition to placing more strain on the liver to metabolize fats and sugars, eating fried and fatty foods may exacerbate acidity issues. There is also the theory that protein mitigates the effects of alcohol. This perhaps explains why Punjabis like Paneer Tikkas and Chicken Tandoori with their Desi “Scotch”. However, it would be dishonest to single them out since alcohol and non-vegetarian appetizers are inherently associated across India.
Goat liver likewise has an appeal for Indian drinkers. Maybe this is also motivated by the need to nourish their own overworked organ. Given that goat liver is rich in protein and low in fat and cholesterol, there may be some scientific validity to this. In addition, it is rich in vitamins, including B12 and folate, which are good for those who consume a lot of alcohol. Since liver is a popular combination with local alcoholic beverages like Mahua and country liquor, I have more faith in this line of reasoning. The greatest liver, in fact, that I can recall eating was at a Santhali Handia hut near Ghatshila on our way to Ranchi during our college years. Those were little pieces sautéed with an abundance of onions, chilies, and turmeric. Even today, I’ve seen that liver is a popular dish in cheap restaurants where you can also acquire other goat intestinal parts. These are substituted in tribal regions with chicken internal organs, such as the gizzards. This accomplishes the dual goals of eliminating the aftertaste of alcohol and offering a nutritious boost, in my opinion.
Reputable bars often feature specialty bar bites that are just as appealing as the whole atmosphere. These are often local specialties, such as Kerala’s cooking of seafood and meat. However, it’s possible that the Toddy Shops in Kerala’s major towns, like Ernakulam, have taken it too far. Some have become tourist traps, with their cuisine becoming more popular than their alcohol. Food is only a supporting cast in honest bars; booze is the star of the show. They prevent food from taking center stage and acting as a diversion, which lowers the amount of alcohol—the company’s primary source of income—that is consumed.
The greatest example of this that I am aware of is Shaw’s Bar, also known as Chota Bristol, which is located in Dharmatala, Kolkata, in the alley opposite to the former Metro theater. They don’t have a kitchen of their own, but they do allow authorized street vendors to enter and sell goods that are displayed on trays in little paper bowls. Consumers choose without regard to money. The menu includes fried liver, fish fingers, boiled eggs, green guava chaat, sprouting bean salad, and fish fingers.
Traditional bar bites are also available in the historic colonial clubs. During my brief visit to the Bhubaneshwar Club last week, I learned about its distinctive Papdi Kabab even though its history does not go back to the Raj era. These are paneer or chenna patties coated in crumbled papad and deep-fried. Put another way, they blend the zest of papad with the deliciousness of paneer tikka. But for me, the bori-chura was the show-stopper. Sun-dried lentil dumplings, called Dal Vadi, are roasted and crumbled, then combined with onion, green chilies, and garlic, and finished with raw mustard oil. It reminded me a lot of Sukuti Sadheko, a similar-sounding smoked and dried beef dish found in Nepal. The dried prawn Kismur from Goa or Konkani might be another version of this.
“Touchings” may soon become a part of gastronomic nostalgia as the next generation becomes more discriminating in their palate and coarse liquor gives way to single malts, aromatic gins, and exquisite wines. However, in the hands of creative, cutting-edge master chefs, they may become exotoc and nouvelle bar bites similar to tapas.
