So high, above the globe

In various areas, going for a stroll might indicate different things. The true wonder of the Mawryngkhang Bamboo Trail in Meghalaya is the clever engineering that goes into creating these pathways made of cane and bamboo with just a few nails used. Insta Reels highlight the excitement of scaling creaky staircases throughout this trail. This collective wisdom, ingrained in environmentally friendly building methods for generations, guarantees that these roads can endure Meghalaya’s unrelenting downpours and flooding—the wettest state in the country.

 

The trailhead is located in Wahkhen village. You may rely on GPS navigation to lead you on a scenic two-hour trip from Shillong to Dawki, with a Pomlum exit. A detour to Mylliem along the journey offers a variety of delectable Khasi breakfast alternatives, such as the highly sought-after Doh thad (smoked beef) and Doh snam (blood sausages). If you get there early, you may have a hot cup of Lal cha while the area is shrouded in a distinctive mist.

Tea talks with friends provide an insight into Wahkhen’s cultural environment. The whole route was built by the locals without any help from the government, displaying their ancestors’ history of making bamboo bridges as a means of survival in the face of natural disasters. The Khasi tribe’s peaceful coexistence with the natural world is an intangible legacy that has been handed down orally down the years via songs, folktales, and stories. The understanding of the mythology surrounding this path is enhanced by the lack of written documents, with the possible exception of the current Forgotten Folklore project, which aims to collect, digitize, and chronicle indigenous legends.

So let’s get started. Once upon a time, in the far Northeastern highlands covered in forests, stood a stone of unmatched magnificence known as U Mawryngkhang, or the “King of Stones” in Khasi tradition, where the letter “U” stands for respect. He was king. However, he met Kthiang, a stone maiden, in a rocky “meet cute” and they fell in love. Upon learning of it, the neighboring monarch, U Mawpator, engaged in a brutal conflict. U Mawpator sacrificed his life in the great stone battle, while U Mawryngkhang lost his left arm but gained a beautiful wife.

The scene is prepared for a three-hour expedition with the alluring promise that the story’s rocks would reveal themselves along the walk. It’s a quick 20 minutes on foot toward the Wahrew River’s gushing noises before you see the first bamboo bridge. Even though these constructions seem shaky, walking on them and maintaining your balance above the gushing water inspires confidence in the strength of bamboo.

Past the river, the route becomes narrower and there are more natural walkways with bamboo ladders strewn at an incline. There are views of the seas below as you ascend ever higher. After an hour of walking, there are conspicuous signs alerting hikers to the fact that the next section of the bridge can only accommodate five people at a time. Straight ahead is the sheer Mawkhlieng Cliff, which drops down to the left in a spectacular view. To get over it, you have to walk on a wobbly two-foot-wide bamboo boardwalk that overlooks a dizzyingly steep cliff. A safe path may be ensured by taking careful steps and resting on the sturdy rock wall to the right for further peace of mind.

Bamboo bridges and walkways along cliffside
Reaching the Mawmoit Viewpoint after further climbing, scaling ladders, and clambering under rocks, one is eventually treated to the breathtaking view of the U Mawryngkhang rock rising like a massive monolith among sweeping greenery. The ideal vantage point to see the unending vista of the Rngain valleys is a rocky ledge.

There is another bamboo bridge, further up among the cliffs, once the bamboo route becomes more difficult. It is admirable in its symmetry and firmness. Around the corner, a steep staircase that seems like a stairway to heaven may be found by scrambling up a rocky outcrop. You must brave a last climb to the King of Stones, surrounded by vertiginous waterfalls on both sides, to prove your trustworthiness. Only by reaching the top can you win. From the summit of the Mawryngkhang, the rock of Kthiang is visible in the distance. Mawpator’s severed head is purportedly located on another rock in the valley, while Mawryngkhang is said to have a scar from where his hand was severed.

Along the Wahrew River, there are crystal-clear waters, mild plunge pools, and seasonal waterfalls that may provide a restorative dip for weary legs on the way back. A delicious Khasi thali of handmade Jadoh (rice with slow-cooked pork) and tart pickled bamboo shoots greets you back in Wahkhen hamlet.

There are more levels to uncover in Wahkhen for the cultural explorer. Whistling Village is the term given to the community where individuals call one other by whistling a melody instead of using names. The Siengriti Institute of Traditional Music is also located in the area. A visit to Wahkhen entails more than just climbing a peak, even if the Bamboo Trail is the starting point for learning about the village’s history.