A rendezvous with Tanjore
Squatting on little kothu parottas beneath green trees, munching on spicy, crisp, nethily meen fry; soft Ceylon black pork and Madurai bheja fry, masala-rimmed, is a susegad moment as the Arabian Sea lurches loudly towards Anjuna beach. Co-founder Kishore DF’s Tanjore Tiffin Room in Goa infuses everything with a creative latitude, from the mouthwatering food to the explosive mixology at the bars and the bold red décor of the 150-year-old former Portuguese residence.
Hundreds of shimmying oil lamps create frame-worthy niches in the walls, while nodding green genies and marigolds line the way into the open area leading to the sensually lighted amber pools at night. The premium restaurant has an easy, laid-back attitude throughout the day. Kishore has shopped for exquisite antiques and graceful chandeliers in Chennai, drawing on his family’s wealth.
Every inch of the large room is alive with details such as antique mirrors on the walls, brass and terracotta figurines, urlis holding yellow and orange marigolds on the stone floor, potlis of pickles and podi tucked away inside sturdy glass-enclosed cupboards, and foliage luxuriating in the soft sunlight. The design language establishes the mood for a sophisticated but homey appeal.
The flavors in the food have a thin flow that embodies Tamilian home-style showmanship and palate sensitivity. According to Kishore, “the goal is to stand out in a competitive market.” The selection is distinct and wide-ranging.
This is obviously not your typical Indian eatery. Deep-fried, spicy puri bonda, packed with aloo, sits on a little platter, brooding in its crisp shell. Roasted buff birria is served atop little tacos. Street-style Madurai bheja fried, tossed with black pepper, served on light parottas.
Kishore DF
The succulent baby lobster chilli fry is a beautiful tribute to fresh seafood from Goa. Sample the delicious marina pork curry, which is slow-cooked and calamari-bellied with grilled, minced prawns; or the local fish chonak, which is served in an amazing spicy curry. This is hearty, hearty cuisine that is proud of its ingredients and flavor-driven.
As a Chennai staple, chintamani chicken is known for its sizzling flavors that send little bursts of joy across your mouth. The greatest thing is that the sampling thaali gives you a choice from around a dozen curries, so you can make an educated decision. With its many bases—coconut, tamarind, tomato, etc.—the curry may be tailored to accommodate both vegetarian and non-vegetarian components. With swirls of coriander, cumin, and mint, this simple curry omelette is a quiet show-stopper.
“It’s simple to create an exquisite dining establishment with excellent cuisine, but if the overall experience isn’t pleasurable for the patrons, you have failed,” asserts Kishore, who previously in Mumbai launched two sister superstar restaurants, The Tanjore Tiffin Room in Versova and Bandra, respectively. Cool drinks are brought in by the bar’s excellent mixology, particularly the gin spin Garden Galata with passion fruit and citrus bitters. Tequila-infused popcorn infusions tilt the scales in favor of an encore, while tiny coconut jaggery paniyarams leave a soft, podgy impression on the subtle-sweet finishes. Why Goa and not Bengaluru, Delhi, Pune, or other cities? “Being a restaurant owner in Goa quickly puts you on the map worldwide,” says Kishore with a grin. We are totally in agreement.
Curry, Uma Athai
Components
● One-half cup sesame oil
● Five grams of fennel seeds
● 5g of mustard seeds
Curry departs: 15 to 20
● One-inch cinnamon stick
● Onion: 3
● One tomato
● Green chili: 2
● 5g of powdered turmeric
● 5 grams of cumin powder
● 5gm of coriander powder
● Salt to taste
● 15gm of masala mutton
● 5g of red chili powder
● 15g of ginger-garlic paste
● Mint leaves: 5 grams
500g of boneless chicken leg
Technique
Warm up some oil in a wok.
● Include curry leaves, mustard, dennel, and cinnamon sticks.
● Include sliced onion and cook until it becomes translucent.
● Add the sliced green chilies and the chopped tomato.
Put in the ginger-garlic paste.
Add the chicken and cook it.
● Include the powdered spices and salt.
Bring the boiling water to a boil and add it.
● Simmer for cookedness
● Add chopped mint and coriander leaves as garnish.
