Components of Flavor
A woman and son enter the Erth Restaurant for lunch in Al Hosn, Abu Dhabi. They arrive in time to take the last table that is available. As the youngster enthralls us about what’s going on at school, his mother reaches over to take up the ceramic vase that’s been set on the table and looks through it to find the menu. We order a cauliflower tabbouleh, a local organic zucchini gratin, and spiced hasselback potatoes from the United Arab Emirates.
Erth’s ethos is Emirati, not just in terms of the cuisine but also in terms of the atmosphere and style. The subject matter is mostly earthy. The handcrafted ceramic plates and vases are carefully chosen from a workshop located on Saadiyat Island in Abu Dhabi. The Jebel Hafeet mountain provided the hewn and sculpted stone for the live cooking stations. The low seating is comfortable without really sitting on the floor, evoking memories of a majlis.
Erth Eatery
The Hasselback potatoes with parsley, chives, and sumac had been devoured by now. The butternut squash and zucchini gratin is filling without being too heavy. The flavors of the tabbouleh, lime, hazelnut, parsley, and green loumi dressing please the senses. A couple enjoying Thareed ravioli, a specialty dish, at the corner table is celebrating their anniversary. This classic Emirati meal is a stew cooked with veggies, spices, and either lamb or chicken. Regag, or thin bread pieces, are placed on top of it. They order a side of Margooga, a flavorful stew made with pork and vegetables, and a side of torch-fried fish crudo from a nearby farm.
There are just desserts on one table, each more enticing than the other. The focal point is a platter of Luqaimat. Sesame seeds are added, and date syrup or honey is poured over the crispy-fried dough balls. The Emirati cheese cake is presented with honey gel and a bed of berry jam. Beside the cheese cake are fresh raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries. Erth just earned a Michelin star, making it the first restaurant in the world owned by Emiratis. It is known for its unusual Pistachio Rahash, a drink prepared with camel milk, tahini halwa, pistachios, and vanilla.
A selection of drinks
Chef Debi Prasad, the chief chef, is originally from Odisha. Seeing his mother make traditional foods in their family kitchen stoked his enthusiasm for cooking. The chef’s approach to cooking is centered on using products that are found locally to produce meals that pay tribute to historic traditions.
It is hardly surprising that he ended himself in Erth, the Arabic word for legacy.
