Again, Kapurthala

When looking for examples of French architecture, our thoughts often go to Goa, Munnar, or Pondicherry. But Punjab also has a lesser-known jewel called the Paris of Punjab. It is Kapurthala, the capital of the Ahluwalia dynasty and a former princely state of India. “This city is where my ancestors came from. Jagatjit Maharaja

 

Singh was one of its notable monarchs. Traveler and cosmopolitan, he gave Kapurthala a French-style makeover and constructed several architectural marvels, according to luxury designer JJ Valaya, who named his bridge-to-luxury line after the city.

Following the blueprint of the Palace of Versailles, the Kapurthala Palace was constructed. Other structures, like the Jagatjit Club, exhibit the elegance of Greek architecture, while the Elysee Palace and Shalimar Gardens are prime examples of Indo-French design. The apparel line of Valaya is also greatly influenced by these kinds of cross-cultural influences.

The 56-year-old designer has visited Kapurthala on many occasions, despite having been born in Jodhpur. Valaya, who is acquainted with the descendants of the erstwhile royal family, has access to historical diaries, pictures, and albums that document Maharaja Jagatjit Singh’s journeys. Inspired by his travels, the Kapurthala line’s creations are all endowed with a bohemian flair that never goes out of style. The outfits are designed for the well-traveled Indian who prefers classic, lightweight clothes that are simple to carry. “The soul is Indian, but the look is contemporary,” he remarks.

Within the shop

Two years ago was the commencement of the Kapurthala line. Recently, its first solo shop opened at Dhan Mill. The designer refers to the plush shop’s “shifting leaves” with a chevron pattern as a “celebration of the label’s favourite neutrals, black and white, i.e., classic luxury wear” as we go in. The store has a charcoal gray façade.

Three mannequins dressed in saris and skirt sets with zebra prints from the Fauna collection welcome us inside and take us on a trip into the wild. “Even though it draws inspiration from animal designs, it’s a clear message that wearing animal skins does not involve killing them. It is appropriate to admire and enjoy their beauty. Giraffe designs will soon be added to the collection, adds Valaya. The chevron pattern skirts on the racks highlight the label’s hallmark, while the banjara embroidery on Art Deco-style blouses pays reference to Indian traditional crafts.

For thirty years, Valaya has almost been a couture designer. Why would he introduce a bridge-to-luxury line? “I thought it was the appropriate moment to take action. In contrast to extravagant couture that might cost several lakhs, several individuals I spoke to indicated a need for affordable, adaptable outfits that they could wear to many events. The current generation also aspires to acquire a piece of luxury and is aspirational. I think the majority of India’s luxury designers will move into this market, which goes by many names like diffusion, accessible luxury, prêt wear, or bridge-to-luxury,” he adds.

At heart, a traveler

Entering the shop further reveals that it is really a gallery featuring the designer’s vacation photos. The designer admits that he has a “sucker” for historical sites that connect the present with the past. Framed black-and-white photos from his most recent visit to Istanbul hang on the walls. A sepia-toned image of Maharaja Jagatjit Singh and brief scenes of life in Kapurthala before to independence are shown on a different wall. Photographers aim to capture moments in time. I am exposed to other worlds, ideas, civilizations, art, architecture, and people every time I travel. In order to make anything, I take in everything, filter away the unnecessary, and hold onto the most exquisite elements. Traveling to Morocco, Turkey, Bahrain, and other areas, the designer adds, “I want to bring a photography book of my travels so that future generations can see the before and after pictures of some places.”

He believes that inspiration and art may be found anywhere, thus he doesn’t like to have favorites, yet he is particular about the destinations he visits. “I appreciate places with personality because, let’s face it, life is boring without it—even when it comes to style! A person who dresses entirely in designer clothing but lacks personal flair will never be able to project charm. The magic, however, occurs when someone mixes and matches their outfits—for example, by wearing a blazer with high-street trousers and accessorizing it with a stylish but non-branded belt—to create their own look.

He believes that in an era when everything is “severely tech-driven,” designers should make an effort to preserve the grandeur of the past. Thus, he writes, “the Kapurthala line is a bridge to its past as much as it is a bridge to luxury.”